Category Archives: Weeknight cooking

Sardine and avocado sandwiches

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I am never one to turn down a good sardine recipe, something I owe in part to my Irish heritage. (Both my grandfather and Sean’s grandmother were fond of piling them on Saltine crackers as a snack, and Sean and I like eating them in all sorts of dishes, so through this small population sample, I’ve deduced that people of Irish descent must like sardines.)

Yesterday I found a recipe for Alton Brown’s open-faced sardine and avocado sandwiches, which he apparently ate in massive quantities to help him lose weight a few years back. While I don’t think I could live off of this sandwich, it was satisfying enough for dinner last night–and super tasty.

As much as I love both sardines and avocados on their own, I had never thought to put them together. It is BRILLIANT! The creamy avocado tempers the oceanic brininess of the sardines just enough. Plus, the syrupy zing from the sherry vinegar combined with bright lemon zest and grassy parsley liven up the flavors of the canned fish.

Use a good-quality bread with some heft and flavor of its own for the sandwich. And be warned: If you don’t already love the flavor of sardines, I don’t think this sandwich will change your mind. It’s definitely sardiney, which is exactly why I loved it (and why Penny followed me around for an hour after dinner was over).

Note: Alton’s recipe calls for incorporating oil from the sardine cans into the mixture, but I prefer the flavor of a fruity extra virgin olive oil.

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Sardine-avocado sandwiches
makes two open-faced sandwiches

    1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
    1 tablespoon chopped parsley, divided
    1 1/2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
    1 teaspoon lemon zest
    Freshly ground black pepper
    1 tin sardines packed in oil (King Oscar or Matiz Gallego), drained
    1/2 large ripe avocado
    2 thick slices good-quality sourdough or whole wheat bread, smeared with olive oil and toasted
    Sea salt, to taste
    2 slices lemon, for garnish

Method: In a small bowl, mix the olive oil, half the parsley, the vinegar, lemon zest and black pepper. Add the sardines and stir. Let the mixture sit for 15 or 20 minutes so the flavors meld.

PS I like King Oscar sardines best. The Cento ones were a bit mealy (but all that had at the store).

P.S. I like King Oscar sardines best. The Cento ones were a bit mealy, but all that were available at the grocery store.

Halve the avocado and remove the pit. Smoosh the flesh in one half with a fork and spread it evenly onto the bread, then pile the sardine mixture on top, smoothing it out with a fork. Dribble any remaining dressing over top and garnish with the remaining parsley. Season with a sprinkling of sea salt and a squeeze of lemon.

6 Comments

Filed under Fish/shellfish, Lunch, Sandwiches, Weeknight cooking

Spiced chicken thighs

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No matter how long I’ve been cooking, I still get hung up on what to make for dinner. My email archive has hundreds of self-addressed emails bearing the subject line “dinner,” with portions of recipes pasted inside like ripped virtual pages. I am admittedly pretty old-school when it comes to searching for recipes. I’ll pore through the indexes of my favorite cookbooks or I’ll conduct a blind internet search starting with a single ingredient or technique, like “chicken thighs” or “cooking with cast iron.” But sometimes searches begin because I bought something like ancho chile powder on a whim and then had no idea what to do with the whole jar.

This dish was inspired by a recipe I found on Epicurious.com for cumin- and ancho-crusted chicken thighs. I decided to add some ground coriander to the spice blend because it brings a nutty, curry-like note to the earthy spice of the cumin and chile powder. I rubbed the boneless, skinless thighs with the spices and some kosher salt, then marinated them in the fridge for 2 hours before cooking them in a super hot cast iron pan. The spices formed a gorgeous, toasty crust on the outside of the chicken, which was moist and very tender all the way through. I finished the chicken with a little sea salt for extra crunch and delicate saltiness.

I love cooking chicken thighs. The meat is very succulent–and forgiving if you leave it on the stove a minute or two too long. They also reheat nicely if you have leftovers.

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Spiced chicken thighs

    1/2 tablespoon ground coriander
    1 tablespoon ground cumin
    1 1/2 tablespoons ancho chile powder
    1/2 tablespoon kosher salt
    1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs
    Vegetable oil
    Maldon sea salt, for sprinkling

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Method: Mix the spices and salt together in a small bowl. Toss the chicken in the spice mixture, rubbing the meat all over to ensure it’s evenly coated in the spices. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.

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Heat a large cast-iron pan over medium-high heat, and coat it with a thin layer of vegetable oil. Place the chicken in the pan in a single layer (working in batches if necessary so as to not overcrowd the pan). Cover with foil and cook until a crust forms, about 5 minutes. Turn; cook until the meat is cooked through, about 4 more minutes. Transfer to a plate, cover and let rest for 5 minutes.

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Sprinkle lightly with sea salt just before serving. Serves 2 to 3 people. Note: I served this chicken with Cuban-style black beans and white rice.

4 Comments

Filed under Chicken, Dinner ideas, Weeknight cooking

Issima

I think it’s safe to say that Nigella Lawson is the prettiest lady I’ve ever seen. This week, my mother-in-law took me to the Chicago stop of Nigella’s book tour for her ninth (ninth??) cookbook, the Italian-inspired Nigellissima.

Ina Pinkney, owner of Ina’s in Chicago, watches Nigella sample her entry dishes for ABC’s “The Taste,” on which Nigella is a judge. Ina later told me: “I didn’t make the cut–my oven didn’t work.”

Nigella tells starstruck Marge where to eat in London.

Nigella tells starstruck Marge where to eat in London.

Honestly, I spent the first 20 minutes sitting there in a misty-eyed daze while she narrated bits of her life with that melodious British accent, from dinner parties gone wonderfully awry to stories about her rebellious great aunt (I wonder what rebellious means when applied to old British ladies) to favorite dishes that began as accidents, like custard streaked with baked rhubarb and cooked in a bain-marie. She offered lovely little observations like, “Some people get angry that I wear my hair down on my television show, but that’s how I cook when I’m in my home, and that’s how my mother cooked. I ate her hair all throughout my childhood and turned out just fine.”

Less than an hour later, after scribbling her signature in our cookbooks, posing for a few photos and answering some questions, she hurried out of there with her orange tote slung over her shoulder, onto the next stop in her book tour and the next group of admirers. It made me wonder what she would remember about her visit to Chicago, if anything–while the rest of us would talk about it for days and pore over her pretty book, proudly thinking we knew her just a little bit better than everybody else. We had personalized messages in our copies, after all:

For Maggie Love Nigella

But back to the book. It’s gorgeous and full of unpretentious, yet luxurious recipes–all interwoven with Nigella’s rich narratives. A former journalist, she does all her own writing, which makes her books as much about the stories as the food. I thought the title fit the contents of the book and much of what Nigella said during her brief appearance. “I never deny myself the chance to indulge,” she said. Although she’s trimmed down a lot these days, it really seems as though she embraces living to the fullissimest.

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The very first recipe in the book is this heavenly, curly-cue pasta dish with a Sicilian pesto-like sauce of blitzed cherry tomatoes, capers, almonds, basil and golden raisins. I decided I had to make it immediately.

The dish comes together in the time it takes to cook the pasta, but the real showmanship comes from that sauce, which blends a unique combination of ingredients spanning the whole Mediterranean. Do I feel slightly ashamed of paying $6.99 for the fancy fusilli? Yes. But it really made the dish special.

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Fusilli with Sicilian pesto
a la Nigella Lawson

    1 box (just over 1 lb.) fusilli lunghi
    8 ounces cherry or grape tomatoes
    5-6 anchovy fillets
    2 tablespoons raisins (golden or regular)
    2 tablespoons drained capers
    1/3 cup skinned almonds
    2 cloves garlic, smashed
    1/4 cup good-quality extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
    Salt and pepper to taste
    1 cup basil, for garnish

Method: Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it generously before adding the pasta. Cook the pasta until al dente.

While the pasta cooks, make the sauce by putting all the remaining ingredients, except the basil, into a food processor and blitzing until you have a sauce that looks like this:

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Check the seasoning, and add salt and pepper as needed.

Drain the pasta, and reserve about 1/2 cup of the starchy cooking liquid. Add about half that to the food processor, pulsing as you go.

Spoon about half the sauce into a large bowl. Dump the pasta on top and add the remaining sauce on top. Toss until all the noodles are coated in sauce, adding a bit more cooking liquid as needed. To serve, heap into bowls or on large plates and toss several basil leaves over the top. Drizzle with olive oil.

Serves 3-4. This dish is delicious served warm, cold or at room temperature.

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Filed under Pasta, Weeknight cooking

Marge’s first guest!

My older (and only) sister Madeline is my best friend and about half a foot shorter than I am. We love to eat, drink and complain together, and people often mistake our voices on the phone. She is also responsible for many of my and Sean’s nicknames due to a series of Gchat typos. I now answer to Merf, and Sean is affectionately known as Dean.

Here are two pictures of us eating with nice makeup on the day I got married. (Credit: Eric Futran and Andrew Boudreau)

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Over the past couple years, Mad has become quite a fierce cook. So when she texted me that she was successful in making a simple mung bean (or bean thread) noodle salad, I replied, “Where do you even buy those?! You have to do a guest blog about it!”

So here it is, in Mad’s–also Maddy, Mat or Mac’s–own words. This also happens to be the 101st blog entry of Marge’s Next Meal! A very fitting way to commemorate 101 posts. (As you can see, I forgot to mention when I hit the 100 mark last week.)

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Simple bean thread salad
by Maddy Shea

Growing up in our family, I think it is fair to say that with all the wonderful food provided to us everyday, I was never the one with the obvious talent for cooking. There are a whole host of meals I am loath to eat outside of my family’s versions because I already know that they will never measure up. My mom’s cooking still consists of my personal standard and ideal of what constitutes a homemade meal. So hearty meals like spaghetti and meatballs, German roladen, and stuffed chicken are absolutely never going to taste as good if they come from some outside source. My sister, now an accomplished chef and food expert, has created some of the most delicious foods I have ever tasted–Marge, I recall requesting that pork and ramen soup… where is it?? Even my dad has this one-of-a-kind knack for barbeque chicken so that I tend to stay on the safe side when at a picnic or barbeque restaurant and just go with a burger.

Needless to say, when it came to establishing my own cooking habits, I already had some pretty high standards. In fact, I still won’t eat many of the things I cook myself. One area in which I have begun to feel more confident, however, is lunch. I have always been better off throwing together what our mom has affectionately called “picky dinners,” or meals made up of a variety of small things–sandwiches cut into fours, bowls of nuts, slices of cheese, a fruit salad–rather than cooking full-blown meals complete with all kinds of appropriately coordinated side dishes.

One dish in this vein of “things tossed together” of which I am particularly proud is the bean thread salad. It is roughly based on the bean thread salad you can order at most Thai restaurants and of course largely based on what I find to be enjoyable to eat.

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This salad also offers a very malleable palette; you can include whatever ingredients you find to be most enjoyable. I happen to think sugar snap peas, shrimp, and water chestnuts would be great additions if you’re looking for greater variety. In fact, it’s so easy to make and lends so easily to personal taste that it is now a meal that rivals its restaurant-prepared cousin.

But what I love most about this meal is that it would not have been possible without my family’s shared love of savory, simple foods and some important takeaways from my all-time favorite cooks: mom’s homemade salad dressing is proof that all you really need is lemon juice and oil; my sister’s ability to make ordinary food special just by slicing it thinly; and my dad’s love of a little spicy kick to make things interesting.

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Bean thread salad with fried tofu

    1 package firm tofu
    Soy sauce, as needed
    2 tablespoons vegetable oil
    1 package mung bean noodles
    3-4 green onions
    1 large jalapeno pepper, stemmed
    2 medium carrots, ends trimmed and peeled
    1/2 cup cilantro leaves, plus a few reserved for garnish
    Juice of 1 lemon
    1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    Salt and pepper, to taste

Method: First, put pressure on the tofu to squeeze out all the excess water. This can be done by placing a flat surface on top of it and weighting that down with a dense object like a cookbook or a can.

Once the water is removed, cut the tofu into 1/4-inch cubes and sprinkle with soy sauce until each cube has been evenly coated. This will give the tofu a much richer flavor.

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Pour the oil in a large skillet over medium-high and add the tofu. Turn the cubes until they are browned and a bit crispy. This will take about 7 minutes. Place the browned tofu on a paper towel-lined plate, and set aside to cool.

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Cook the mung bean noodles according to the package directions. After boiling them, I usually rinse them in cold water to speed up the cooling process.

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On a large cutting board, thinly slice the green onion and jalapeno pepper. It is important to slice the pepper into very thin slivers to evenly distribute the heat. Next, shave the carrot in long strips with a vegetable peeler. Mince the cilantro.

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In a large bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Then layer into the bowl a handful of noodles with a small pile of peeled carrots, some of the chopped green onions and jalapenos, a mini handful of tofu, and a pinch of cilantro. Repeat until all ingredients have been incorporated into the bowl. Layering the ingredients will aid in the mixing process. Toss the ingredients thoroughly with tongs, ensuring the noodles are coated with the lemon dressing and ingredients are evenly spread throughout.

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To serve, heap onto plates or into deep bowls, and garnish with a few whole cilantro leaves. Serve cold or at room temperature. Serves 4 (or 2 hungry sisters, plus leftovers).

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Filed under Pasta, Salad, Vegetarian, Weeknight cooking

Timing.

Doesn’t it sometimes feel like there’s some terrible irony at work in the timing of things? Take the month of January 2013 in the life of Marge, for example.

January has been really good to me for many reasons. I joined Kerrygold’s food blogger network and promptly received a shipment of pure Irish gold: 5 pounds of unsalted butter “for all my baking needs,” the accompanying letter read. I hosted my first cooking demonstration since before attending culinary school and realized I could really see myself teaching regular cooking classes. I was asked to help judge The Cocoa Derby chocolate competition, to be hosted next month by my good friends at Graze magazine. I submitted a few pieces of writing for possible publication. I began planning exciting 2013 trips to Seattle; Austin, Texas; Portland, Oregon; England and Scotland. My best friend got a promotion. Sean’s work finally opened an office in Chicago, cutting his commute in half.

Too sick/injured/pathetic to play outside

Too pitiful to play outside

But all this good stuff was laced with a large dose of cruel trickery, starting with a head cold of unprecedented congestive proportions that plagued me for well over a week. (This also marked the first time in my 12-year relationship with Sean in which we got sick at the same time.) Not long after, our credit card information was stolen and Penny the Peanut partially tore her ACL (thankfully much less expensive than a full tear–which would have meant goodbye to the UK trip mentioned above). It culminated last weekend with a nightlong bout of food poisoning, brought on by one of the true loves of my life: tacos.

I hope the universe has had a good laugh from it all. I, for one, am feeling a bit worn out from all that emotional and physical see-sawing. So all I’m going to do tonight is sit down in my sweatpants to a deep bowl of stracciatella with kale (Italy’s answer to egg drop soup, punched up with my favorite dark, leafy green). I promise I’ll add the recipe soon. But for now it’ll have to wait.

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Filed under Food writing, Soup, Weeknight cooking

Slow down, Marge

I don’t know where September went. But somehow, October will be here next week. It’s getting dark earlier and earlier, the nights are colder and the air has a different smell–a little crackly and smoky like dying leaves and campfires.

Fall is my favorite time of year, especially in Chicago. But I’m not quite ready to let go of summer, particularly because this one was one of the warmest and sunniest I can remember. I usually spend September frantically trying to jam in as much as I can before the cold weather descends. Going out to eat several nights a week becomes justified by flimsy claims like, “but how many more times will we be able to sit outside without a jacket?”

So there I was, walking home from work on yet another mild weeknight in early September, wrestling with the idea of going out for dinner. But instead, I stopped at the grocery store for a ball of prepared pizza dough and a bundle of rosemary with a plan to use up the last few red potatoes on the counter in a potato and rosemary pizza.

I prepped the pizza slowly, enjoying the mingling of summery and autumnal smells in the kitchen: fruity olive oil and grassy chives; wintry roasting potatoes and piney rosemary. Sean came through the door and breathed deeply. “Ooh, what’s for dinner Marge?” he said. We plunked down on the couch and ate the whole pizza while flipping between a meaningless baseball game and Seinfeld reruns (still so funny!). It was the perfect respite from a whirlwind end of summer.

One of the best parts about this pizza were the pieces of potato that I accidentally sliced too thin. When they went in the oven a second time they crisped up into these salty little chips that Sean and I picked off the pizza while we waited for it to cool.

It was nice to lean on prepared pizza dough for a quick weeknight dinner. But if you have some more time to spare, you can make your own pizza dough. My focaccia dough works nicely and has a slightly fermented flavor from the sponge that sits overnight.

Potato and rosemary pizza

    12 ounces unpeeled small Yukon Gold or red potatoes, sliced into very thin rounds (about 1/8 inch)
    2 large garlic cloves, smashed
    3 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary, divided
    3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
    Salt and pepper, to taste
    14 ounces pizza dough
    AP flour, for dusting
    2 garlic cloves, chopped
    1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
    6 ounces whole milk mozzarella cheese, shredded (you could also substitute chunks of whole milk ricotta)
    1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
    Chives, roughly chopped, for garnish

Method: Preheat the oven to 425F. Toss the potatoes with the smashed garlic, half the rosemary, olive oil, salt and pepper. Arrange them in a single layer on sheet pans, and bake until just tender, 5 minutes. Remove, and set aside.

Turn the heat up to 500F. Roll out the dough on a floured surface. Stretch onto a pizza stone or rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil, then scatter the potato slices over the dough, leaving a 3/4-inch plain border. Sprinkle with the remaining rosemary, chopped garlic and crushed red pepper. Top with cheeses to cover. Drizzle with a bit more olive oil.

Bake until the crust is crisp and the cheese is melted, about 12 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and cut into slices. Serve with additional red pepper flakes or your favorite hot sauce.

4 Comments

Filed under Baked items, Vegetarian, Weeknight cooking