Category Archives: Sauce

September 29, 2012 · 8:32 am

Sunday sauce

I love the idea of Italian Sunday gravy–meaty tomato sauce that cooks all day on very low heat. It conjures this romantic image of a tiny Italian grandma stooped over a pot older than she is, masterfully babysitting the bubbling, savory sauce while the house fills up with the sounds of idle chatter and clinking glasses.

My own experience has been much less romantic. I splattered myself and most of the stove with tomato seeds as I attempted to squish them over the pot as instructed. (As I’m typing, I just noticed I actually have tomato juice on my foot.) Even worse, all the aggressive clanging as I frantically chopped aromatics and heaved them into the pot scared the dog into the far corner of the house. I guiltily coaxed her back into the living room with a hunk of cheddar cheese, reassuring her I wasn’t a total lunatic. But it all felt worthwhile as the house filled with the aroma of meaty browned bones, sweet San Marzano tomatoes, pungent onion and garlic and the faint acidic tang of white wine.

The funniest (and worst) part about the long hours spent procuring ingredients, browning them and then waiting while they bubble away at a snail’s pace is the day doesn’t even end with me eating the dreamy sauce. Instead, it’s one of several ingredients going into a braised pot roast that we’ll eat over rigatoni tomorrow.

Oh, sauce. Why must you tease me?

Sunday sauce
adapted from chef Michael Symon

    1/4 cup olive oil
    2 lbs. meaty beef or pork bones
    1 large onion
    6 cloves garlic, sliced
    Salt
    2 cups dry white wine
    2 28-ounce cans whole San Marzano tomatoes
    1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
    2 teaspoons fresh oregano leaves
    2 bay leaves

Method: In a 5-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium high until it slides easily around the bottom. Add the bones and sear them, turning occasionally, until brown all over.

Add the onion, garlic and a generous pinch of salt, and sweat for about 3 minutes, until softened. Deglaze the pan with the wine. Crush the tomatoes with your fingers and add them and their juices to the pot.

Add the red pepper, oregano, bay leaves and another large pinch of salt and bring the sauce to a simmer.

Reduce the heat to its lowest possible setting, cover and cook the sauce until it’s reduced by one third, about 8 hours. (You don’t want the sauce to simmer; instead, you should see a bubble rising to the surface every now and then.) Remove the bones and discard.

This complex, deeply savory sauce would be wonderful pureed and served with pasta, Italian sausage and torn basil, or for adding to any braised meat. It will keep in the fridge for about a week or up to 2 months in the freezer.

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April 28, 2012 · 10:06 am

Taking a chance on ramps

The first time I bought ramps was last spring. Before then, I had only known them as a side dish that would show up on restaurant menus in March and April.

I had just been offered a job as an editor at Modern Baking magazine, and I was reeling from the excitement (and the frustration of not being able to publicly celebrate, since I hadn’t yet told my boss). It was one of those chilly yet blindingly sunny early spring days, when it feels as though it must be 30 degrees colder in the shade. Sean was out of town, so I called my friend Katie, told her the good news and asked if she and her boyfriend Paul would like to come for dinner.

“Whatchya makin’, Marge?” she prodded.

“Something with fresh shelled peas!” I cried. I had been thinking about peas all day.

An hour later, I clambered off the bus at Whole Foods and headed straight for the produce department, only to find that there wasn’t a fresh pea in sight. But wedged somewhere between the green onions and radishes was a massive stack of ramps. Not entirely sure what my plan was but feeling up for a challenge, I grabbed two big bunches and headed home. I did a quick online search and found a recipe for ramp pesto. Since I didn’t have any pine nuts or walnuts, I decided I’d change it up a bit. I briefly boiled the ramps and shocked them in ice water to soften them slightly. Then I cooked spaghetti in the same water I’d used for the ramps. I puréed the ramps with olive oil, butter, a little lemon juice, Parmesan cheese and some of the starchy pasta water.

We toasted my new gig and ate the bright, spring-inspired pasta dish in the waning evening light. I was happy I’d taken a chance on ramps that day. And after months of writing articles about marketing campaigns for supermarkets, I was ready to get back into food writing full time.

The next morning, I called my boss and told him I’d accepted a position at a magazine for bakery owners. He was quiet for a minute, and my heart started to race.

“I’m never eating a cupcake again,” he said.

……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

This ramp pesto recipe is much more of a straightforward pesto than my improvised pasta sauce above. I rough chopped the ramps and ground them in a food processor with toasted pine nuts. I then streamed in olive oil and lemon juice, then seasoned with salty Parmesan, a little salt and lots of black pepper. Some people swear by quickly boiling (or blanching) the ramps first to sustain their vibrant green color and cut a bit of their sharpness, but I think this sauce tastes best when the ramps are left raw. Their mild, slightly grassy onion flavor lends itself well to a pesto-type preparation, and allows you to omit the garlic.

You can certainly switch out the ramps for basil, arugula or roasted bell peppers, but I like to use ramps while they’re in season. Much like dream jobs, ramps are available only briefly before someone else scoops them up.

Ramp pesto

    2 bunches ramps, cleaned, stems trimmed and outer or bruised leaves removed
    1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted
    Juice of 1/2 lemon
    1/3 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil
    1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
    Salt and pepper, to taste

Method: Roughly chop the ramps. Add them to a food processor along with the pine nuts, and blend on low until they form a coarse purée. You might have to scrape down the sides a few times with a spatula to get everything chopped up.

Add the lemon juice, and with the food processor running on low, slowly stream in the olive oil and blend until it forms a paste.

Remove the blade, and fold in the Parmesan cheese to taste. Add salt, if needed, and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

This recipe makes enough for pesto pasta for 4. You can also fold it into scrambled eggs, drizzle it on grilled meat, fish or vegetables, stir a little into vegetable soup just before serving, or smear it on a sandwich.

To store the pesto, place in an airtight container and drizzle a little olive oil over the top. It should keep for about 1 week.

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October 12, 2011 · 7:20 pm

A companion for crusty bread

One of life’s greatest pleasures is slathering something creamy on crisp bread. The melding of contrasting textures is so appetizing, and seems to satisfy an almost universal craving. I first had a version of this cucumber-feta spread at The Purple Pig in Chicago, on a platter piled high with crisp-chewy grilled bread.

I’m a little late in the season for this post–as mint and cucumber have passed their prime harvest time here in the Midwest. Still, this is one of those dishes that would be great–and easy–to bring to a party, especially because it gets better as it sits in the fridge, so you could prepare it the night before. You can swap out the 2 percent Greek yogurt for fat-free if you want, but you’ll be missing out on a little luxury. Just sayin’.

Feta and cucumber spread with crispy toast

    1/2 English seedless cucumber, grated
    1 large scallion, minced
    1 tablespoon fresh mint, chopped
    1 garlic clove, minced
    1 teaspoon fresh oregano, chopped
    Juice of 1/2 lemon
    16-ounce container 2 percent Greek yogurt
    8 ounces Feta, crumbled
    2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
    Salt and pepper, to taste
    1 baguette, sliced on a bias about 3/4-inch thick
    2 large garlic cloves, crushed

Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, mix the cucumber, scallion, garlic and herbs with lemon juice.

Add the yogurt, and blend until well combined. Next, pile in the cheese, making sure to break it up with your fingers as you add it. Drizzle the mixture with 2 tablespoons olive oil, and stir once again.

Taste the mixture, and add salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a smaller bowl, cover with plastic and place in the refrigerator to let the flavors meld. (You can leave it overnight; the flavor will only get better.)

Meanwhile, place the baguette slices on sheet pans in a single layer. Drizzle them with olive oil on both sides; rub each side with garlic and season with salt. Bake them for about 8 minutes, flipping after about 4 minutes to ensure even browning. Keep an eye on them. You want to preserve some of the interior’s chewiness.

After baking, cut the slices in half with a sharp knife, and pile onto a platter. Spoon some of the chilled spread into a bowl, and place it on the platter next to the bread. Just before serving, drizzle the spread with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with black pepper.

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October 4, 2011 · 6:51 pm

Adding decadence to grilled steak

In my humble opinion, there are few things that can really improve grilled New York strip steak. When I think of a good strip steak, the adjective “toothsome” comes to mind. You really have to chew this steak, and that is one of the best parts about it. It’s juicy, savory and primal. My favorite way to serve it is to season it simply with kosher salt and cracked pepper and cook it over a direct flame because I like the slight smoke flavor imparted by the grill.

But even perfectly indulgent meals can benefit from a little butter. I first discovered the magic of steak with butter several years ago at Ruth’s Chris steakhouse in Chicago. I ordered the strip and it arrived at the table sizzling, topped with a pat of butter that oozed into the crust and down the sides as it melted. The rich mouthfeel of the butter enhanced the meat’s inherent decadence. A nap was required immediately after dinner.

An easy way to add flavor and a little more complexity is to make compound butter. Essentially, you blend room-temperature butter with herbs, seasoning, citrus zest, garlic–whatever flavorings you like. I love to use it on grilled meat, toasted baguette or pasta. And because it sounds quite intimidating to make, your chances of sounding impressive to dinner guests are greatly improved.

Don’t let the anchovies in this recipe scare you. You will barely know they’re in there, but you will appreciate their lovely briny saltiness.

To complement the steak, I served a simple arugula and shallot salad with lemon vinaigrette and my oven fries with parsley and garlic.

Grilled steak with anchovy butter

    2 New York strip steaks
    4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
    5 canned anchovy fillets, minced
    1 1/2 tablespoons shallot, minced
    1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
    1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel
    Salt and pepper, to taste
    Canola oil, as needed

Method: Heat the grill to high. Allow the meat to come up to room temperature for about 30 minutes before you’re ready to start grilling.

Meanwhile, combine the butter, anchovy, shallot, lemon juice and zest in a bowl. Taste, and then season as needed with salt and pepper.

Lay out a large strip of plastic wrap on the counter. Spoon the butter onto the plastic. Roll it out to form a log. Twist both ends to close them, and place the savory butter log in the fridge for at least 30 minutes to harden.

When the grill is preheated and the steaks have come to room temperature, coat them with canola oil and season them generously with salt and pepper. Grill the steak for 6 to 8 minutes per side, or until medium rare.

A few minutes before pulling the steaks off the grill, remove the compound butter log from the fridge and slice off two half-inch coins.

Top the sizzling steaks with the butter, cover them loosely with aluminum foil and let them rest at least five minutes before serving.

Instead of pre-slicing the steak, I like to arm guests with a sharp knife and let them go at it themselves for a more carnal experience. Plus, they get to smear melted butter on each bite.

Night number two: Pasta with compound butter

Pasta with leftover compound butter

A few nights later, I used the leftover butter in a simple pasta dish. I sautéed a shallot and garlic in olive oil with lemon zest and red pepper flakes, then tossed in spaghetti, a little pasta water and a few coins of the compound butter. I finished the dish with a little lemon juice, chopped fresh parsley and chives–and then enjoyed a lovely Wednesday dinner for one.

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June 22, 2011 · 8:04 pm

Something for smearing

A basic hummus recipe is wonderful to have. Much more than just a dip for pita bread or vegetables (though it is perfectly acceptable to have it that way–see above), this Middle Eastern schmear makes a nice spread on sandwiches, and creates a light yet creamy pasta sauce with the addition of starchy pasta water, fresh herbs and lemon zest. Often I will prepare a cold couscous or bulghur salad with fresh veggies and plop a large scoop of hummus and a generous drizzle of olive oil on top.

Like most of my favorite recipes, hummus is a good base for creative flavoring additions. Once you have tinkered with the seasonings to find the right balance of flavors (note: I like more garlic in mine than you might), you can start to play with interesting additions like chipotles, sun-dried tomatoes, cilantro or roasted red peppers. You can even swap out some of the chickpeas for edamame or use cannellini beans instead.

Be sure to use good-quality extra virgin olive oil and that the raw ingredients are very fresh, as there are so few components to this recipe.

Basic hummus

    2 14-ounce cans chickpeas, drained (reserve 3 tablespoons of the liquid)
    3 cloves garlic, smashed
    1/4 cup tahini
    Juice of 1 lemon
    2 teaspoons salt
    1 teaspoon black pepper
    1/4 cup good-quality extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
    Sweet paprika, for garnish

Method: Combine the chickpeas and their liquid with the garlic, tahini, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a food processor. Blend for about 1 minute until smooth.

Scrape down the sides of the processor with a spatula.

Turn the processor back on low, and slowly stream in the olive oil until well incorporated. Check for seasoning and adjust as needed. If serving as a dip, drizzle the top with olive oil and garnish with a sprinkle of paprika. Keep in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to about two weeks. Makes about 1 1/2 lbs.

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February 12, 2011 · 3:55 pm

Steak with confited shallots pour deux

It is winter in Chicago and a brutal one at that. When we’re not being pummeled with thundersnow (yes, that happened), sagging gray skies and below-freezing temps make for agitated Chicagoans. We often cope by overeating and holing up in bars to drink away our cabin fever and grumble together about moving to warmer climates.

What better way to warm the soul than with a bistro-style meal? There are few things I love more than the rich flavor of hanger or skirt steak contrasted by the subtle bite of reduced wine and vinegar. Paired with crisp oven-baked fries showered with coarse salt and parsley and a blanched celery root and haricots verts salad bound with mayonnaise and lemon, this meal comes together quickly and is fairly affordable.

Resources used: Epicurous.com. One of my go-to online recipe databases is Epicurious.com. They’ve amassed countless well-tested recipes from places like Gourmet and Bon Appetit magazines. I often will search by ingredient and compare the recipes until I find a method I like. Epicurious also has a fabulous (and free) iPad app that allows you to search by ingredient or meal type and create recipe boxes and shopping lists.

Skirt steaks with confited shallots

    1 tablespoon vegetable oil
    1 12-oz. bottom skirt or hanger steak, cut into 2 pieces
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper
    2 tablespoons unsalted butter
    3-4 shallots, peeled, trimmed, thinly sliced and patted dry
    2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
    2/3 cup dry red wine
    2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley leaves

Method: Season the steaks liberally with salt and pepper. Heat a large skillet over high heat, and add the oil. When the oil slides easily around the pan, add the steaks. Brown evenly, turning as needed, until they’re done the way you like them. (About 4 minutes per side gave me medium-rare steaks.) Transfer the steaks to a heated serving dish to rest, and tent the top with foil.

In the same pan, reduce the heat to medium, and add 1 tablespoon of the butter and the shallots. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, for 3 to 5 minutes, until soft. Add the vinegar, and let it evaporate, then add the wine.

Bring the wine to the boil and allow it to cook down until it is reduced by half. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, then stir in the chopped parsley.

Just before serving, slice the steak thinly on the bias. Drizzle the warm shallot sauce over the meat, and serve immediately.

Suggested wine pairing: The owner of Red & White, a wonderful Bucktown wine shop, recommended Domaine de Piaugier Sablet Les Briguieres (2007) Cotes Du Rhone Villages to pair with simply prepared hanger or skirt steak.

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