Category Archives: Salad

Warm French lentil salad

VLUU L210  / Samsung L210

I don’t cook lentils very often, probably because there are too many good Indian restaurants nearby that work fragrant magic on them for me on a weekly basis. But I’ll make an exception every once in awhile for this bistro-style French lentil salad, which couldn’t be further from spicy Indian dal. (See what I did there?) It is equal parts tart, savory and smoky–all things I love. It’s simple yet extremely satisfying.

I’ve often seen French lentil salad paired with a simple grilled salmon fillet, which would be delicious, though I like it best with a few hunks of buttered baguette for a comfy lunch or light dinner. The little green French (or Puy) lentils have a toothsome texture and earthy–almost minerally–flavor that works well with their flavorful counterparts. The best part is, aside from the bit of hunting you’ll have to do for the lentils, everything else in this salad is widely available all the time. Note: Don’t substitute brown or yellow lentils in this recipe; they’re too mushy when cooked.

VLUU L210  / Samsung L210

Warm French lentil salad

    5-6 pieces bacon
    Extra virgin olive oil, as needed
    1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (reserve 1/4 cup for the dressing)
    1 bay leaf
    6 sprigs thyme, chopped and divided in half
    1 1/2 cups French (puy) lentils, picked over for little stones
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
    1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
    1/2 cup red wine vinegar
    1 1/2 cup chopped baby spinach

Method: In a heavy-bottomed pot, render the bacon slowly over medium heat until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon, and set on paper towels to drain, leaving the bacon grease in the pot. Add 1 teaspoon olive oil to the pot, and turn the heat up to medium high. Add the chopped onion, saving 1/4 cup for the vinaigrette. Saute the onion till soft, about 5 minutes; then add the bay leaf, about half the fresh thyme and the lentils. Cook for 2 minutes, then add 3 cups water. Cover the pot, bring it to a boil and reduce it to a simmer.

VLUU L210  / Samsung L210

Cook the lentils for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they’re tender while still maintaining their shape. Drain off the excess water, and remove the bay leaf. Check for seasoning, and adjust as needed. Set aside to cool slightly.

Meanwhile, combine the rest of the onion and thyme with the parsley, red wine vinegar, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking constantly. Taste for seasoning, adjusting as needed.

Add the warm lentils and chopped spinach to the bowl with the vinaigrette, and toss to combine. Crumble the cooled bacon into small pieces and add it to the salad. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Serves 4 as a salad course.

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Filed under Salad, Side Dishes

Marge’s first guest!

My older (and only) sister Madeline is my best friend and about half a foot shorter than I am. We love to eat, drink and complain together, and people often mistake our voices on the phone. She is also responsible for many of my and Sean’s nicknames due to a series of Gchat typos. I now answer to Merf, and Sean is affectionately known as Dean.

Here are two pictures of us eating with nice makeup on the day I got married. (Credit: Eric Futran and Andrew Boudreau)

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Over the past couple years, Mad has become quite a fierce cook. So when she texted me that she was successful in making a simple mung bean (or bean thread) noodle salad, I replied, “Where do you even buy those?! You have to do a guest blog about it!”

So here it is, in Mad’s–also Maddy, Mat or Mac’s–own words. This also happens to be the 101st blog entry of Marge’s Next Meal! A very fitting way to commemorate 101 posts. (As you can see, I forgot to mention when I hit the 100 mark last week.)

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Simple bean thread salad
by Maddy Shea

Growing up in our family, I think it is fair to say that with all the wonderful food provided to us everyday, I was never the one with the obvious talent for cooking. There are a whole host of meals I am loath to eat outside of my family’s versions because I already know that they will never measure up. My mom’s cooking still consists of my personal standard and ideal of what constitutes a homemade meal. So hearty meals like spaghetti and meatballs, German roladen, and stuffed chicken are absolutely never going to taste as good if they come from some outside source. My sister, now an accomplished chef and food expert, has created some of the most delicious foods I have ever tasted–Marge, I recall requesting that pork and ramen soup… where is it?? Even my dad has this one-of-a-kind knack for barbeque chicken so that I tend to stay on the safe side when at a picnic or barbeque restaurant and just go with a burger.

Needless to say, when it came to establishing my own cooking habits, I already had some pretty high standards. In fact, I still won’t eat many of the things I cook myself. One area in which I have begun to feel more confident, however, is lunch. I have always been better off throwing together what our mom has affectionately called “picky dinners,” or meals made up of a variety of small things–sandwiches cut into fours, bowls of nuts, slices of cheese, a fruit salad–rather than cooking full-blown meals complete with all kinds of appropriately coordinated side dishes.

One dish in this vein of “things tossed together” of which I am particularly proud is the bean thread salad. It is roughly based on the bean thread salad you can order at most Thai restaurants and of course largely based on what I find to be enjoyable to eat.

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This salad also offers a very malleable palette; you can include whatever ingredients you find to be most enjoyable. I happen to think sugar snap peas, shrimp, and water chestnuts would be great additions if you’re looking for greater variety. In fact, it’s so easy to make and lends so easily to personal taste that it is now a meal that rivals its restaurant-prepared cousin.

But what I love most about this meal is that it would not have been possible without my family’s shared love of savory, simple foods and some important takeaways from my all-time favorite cooks: mom’s homemade salad dressing is proof that all you really need is lemon juice and oil; my sister’s ability to make ordinary food special just by slicing it thinly; and my dad’s love of a little spicy kick to make things interesting.

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Bean thread salad with fried tofu

    1 package firm tofu
    Soy sauce, as needed
    2 tablespoons vegetable oil
    1 package mung bean noodles
    3-4 green onions
    1 large jalapeno pepper, stemmed
    2 medium carrots, ends trimmed and peeled
    1/2 cup cilantro leaves, plus a few reserved for garnish
    Juice of 1 lemon
    1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    Salt and pepper, to taste

Method: First, put pressure on the tofu to squeeze out all the excess water. This can be done by placing a flat surface on top of it and weighting that down with a dense object like a cookbook or a can.

Once the water is removed, cut the tofu into 1/4-inch cubes and sprinkle with soy sauce until each cube has been evenly coated. This will give the tofu a much richer flavor.

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Pour the oil in a large skillet over medium-high and add the tofu. Turn the cubes until they are browned and a bit crispy. This will take about 7 minutes. Place the browned tofu on a paper towel-lined plate, and set aside to cool.

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Cook the mung bean noodles according to the package directions. After boiling them, I usually rinse them in cold water to speed up the cooling process.

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On a large cutting board, thinly slice the green onion and jalapeno pepper. It is important to slice the pepper into very thin slivers to evenly distribute the heat. Next, shave the carrot in long strips with a vegetable peeler. Mince the cilantro.

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In a large bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Then layer into the bowl a handful of noodles with a small pile of peeled carrots, some of the chopped green onions and jalapenos, a mini handful of tofu, and a pinch of cilantro. Repeat until all ingredients have been incorporated into the bowl. Layering the ingredients will aid in the mixing process. Toss the ingredients thoroughly with tongs, ensuring the noodles are coated with the lemon dressing and ingredients are evenly spread throughout.

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To serve, heap onto plates or into deep bowls, and garnish with a few whole cilantro leaves. Serve cold or at room temperature. Serves 4 (or 2 hungry sisters, plus leftovers).

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Filed under Pasta, Salad, Vegetarian, Weeknight cooking

The learning never stops

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Yesterday I hosted a cooking demonstration in the kitchen of Hyde Park synagogue KAM Isaiah Israel, as part of the fourth annual weekend-long food sustainability summit honoring Martin Luther King Jr. I called the workshop “Reptile scales and celery tentacles: Unusual vegetable salads,” and made three salads in honor of some of the weirder looking veggies found in my community supported agriculture share box this summer: Raw kale with pecorino and fresh breadcrumbs, celeriac and haricots verts remoulade and quick pickled winter vegetable salad (recipe below).

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I chopped, whisked and babbled, I forgot to put garlic in the kale salad. All the while, the two little boys hanging out just to my left stole slices of red onion to snack on. “Do you want to help me toss these veggies in the dressing?” I asked. “Nope,” they replied, munching confidently on onion.

I was reminded a few times of how much I still have to learn as a cook, but it didn’t matter. The group was enthusiastic and unrestrained, chiming in with their observations and questions throughout. “What family of vegetable is kale?” someone asked. “I have no idea,” I confessed. “Mustard,” a guy in the front row exclaimed.

Later, while I was describing my foolproof method for hard boiling eggs, I admitted that I had no idea why adding vinegar to the water makes the eggs easier to peel. The same guy piped up again: “I think it softens the egg shells,” he said, glancing at me somewhat apologetically.

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As the 45 minutes wore on, the fear of exposing my imperfections faded as I got lost in the excitement of sharing my favorite methods and techniques for combining ingredients. We talked about the magic of making mayonnaise, I passed around pecorino romano, gushing over how it smells like sheep, “but in a good way.” I demonstrated how to paste garlic with the side of a knife. “It’s the same idea as crushing it in a mortar and pestle,” one woman observed. “Exactly!” I replied. The group members loosened up too, reaching into the bowl of kale salad to sneak a bite and reminding me to check on my green beans to make sure they didn’t overcook.

It was a wonderful, challenging experience that reminded me why I got into the food business in the first place: because it is a great connector of people. Everyone has something to contribute and something to learn. I, for one, will never forget what family kale is in or why to add vinegar when boiling eggs–and I’ll smile every time I think of it.

Below is the recipe for quick pickled winter vegetable salad, which elicited many ooh’s and ahh’s from the crowd for its pretty presentation and easy technique. The most time-consuming part of the recipe is slicing the vegetables, so use a mandoline if you have one and aren’t afraid of it like I am. And don’t feel limited by the vegetables below–lots of other vegetables would work nicely here, like kohlrabi, carrots or daikon radish. One more thing: You may notice that the photo below doesn’t have a baguette slice on top. This is because I forgot to bring baguette to the demo.

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Quick pickled winter vegetable salad
adapted from Food & Wine magazine

    4 baby or very small red beets, peeled and very thinly sliced
    4 baby or very small golden beets, peeled and very thinly sliced
    4 baby or very small white turnips, peeled and thinly sliced
    8 small radishes, very thinly sliced
    2 celery ribs, peeled and very thinly sliced on a diagonal
    1 fennel bulb—halved, cored and very thinly sliced
    1/2 small red onion, very thinly sliced
    1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar
    1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper
    4 large eggs
    Four 1/2-inch-thick baguette slices, toasted
    Fleur de sel, for sprinkling

Method: Arrange the sliced vegetables in separate piles on 2 large rimmed baking sheets. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle the dressing over the vegetables and toss each pile separately. Let stand for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour.

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Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Carefully lower the eggs into the saucepan and reduce the heat to moderate. Simmer the eggs for 5 minutes. Pour off the hot water and gently shake the eggs in the pan to crack the shells. Fill the pan with cold water and let stand for 1 minute. Carefully peel the eggs and halve them.

Pile a small handful of each of the vegetables on plates. Top with the toasts and lean the egg halves against the vegetable pile. Sprinkle the eggs and salads with fleur de sel and a little pepper and serve. Serves 4, with plenty leftover. Store the vegetables in an airtight container in the fridge for no longer than 4 days, keeping the beets in a separate container.

PS: Thank you Mad, for taking such great photos.

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Filed under Eggs, Salad

Braised short ribs

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I like to think of braised short ribs as beef in a tuxedo, because there are few things more luxurious to eat. Seared until golden and braised for several hours, the meat is meltingly tender and rich, perfumed with wine and aromatics. I served it for my friend Paul’s birthday dinner last week with a sharp little frisee salad and a heap of grainy mustard mashed potatoes.

Midway through the meal, Paul said: “I forgot to eat the meat for a bit while I was eating the potatoes. I just had my first bite again. HOLY CRAP, that is good!”

My pathetic reply: “Just keep saying things like that to me for the rest of the dinner; cooking compliments are like my porn.”

Here are a few bits of advice that will help you achieve delicious short ribs and, as a result, receive compliments of possibly pornographic proportions.

1. Be patient when you sear the meat–I’m talking a full 4 to 5 minutes per side. The reward will be a gorgeous, seared crust jacket on the outside.

2. Give the meat at least 3 hours to braise in a fairly low oven to ensure the meat gets sufficiently tender and the bits of fat melt into the meat and liquid.

3. Braise the meat 1 day before serving! This removes the painful step of skimming the fat off the top. Cool the ribs in the braising liquid, and stick the whole thing in the refrigerator overnight. The next day, the fat will have hardened and you can simply pluck it off the top in pieces, sort of like really unattractive peppermint bark.

4. Serve the short ribs with a fresh, bright counterpart, like a gremolata of garlic, lemon and parsley; or, in this case, a bitter frisee salad with red wine vinegar, chives and parsley. This will make you appreciate the deep flavors in the dish even more.

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Braised short ribs with frisee salad
adapted from Chow.com

Ribs

    3 1/2 pounds beef short ribs, trimmed of excess fat
    3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
    1 medium onion, large dice
    1 medium leek, rinsed well and sliced into 1/2-inch rounds
    3 carrots, sliced into 1/2-inch rounds
    2 stalks celery, large dice
    Salt and pepper
    3 large cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
    2 cups dry red wine
    4 cups low-sodium beef broth

Frisee salad

    2 heads frisee, roughly chopped
    1 bunch chives, minced
    1/2 bunch Italian parsley, stems removed (keep the leaves whole)
    2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
    3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
    Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

For the ribs: Rub the short ribs all over with about 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil and season generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large Dutch oven or other oven-safe pot over high heat, and add the short ribs.

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Sear for 4 to 5 minutes per side, until the ribs are golden brown. Remove them from the pot, and set aside.

Turn the heat down to medium. Drain most of the grease from the pot, and add the remaining tablespoon of vegetable oil along with the onion, leek, carrot, celery and garlic. Season with a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper, and sauté the vegetables until they become tender and slightly caramelized, 5 to 7 minutes.

Pour in the wine, scraping up any bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook until the wine has reduced by half, then add the short ribs back to the pot along with the beef stock. Bring to a boil, then cover and place in a 300F oven for 3 hours, until the beef is falling off the bone. Strain out the vegetables and return the braising liquid to the pot with the short ribs.

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Cool on the stovetop and then refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove the fat from the top and slowly reheat the short ribs in their braising liquid over low heat on the stovetop until the liquid is bubbling and the meat is hot, at least 20 minutes.

For the frisee salad: Place the frisee, chives and parsley in a large bowl. In a separate non-reactive bowl, mix the vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Check the seasoning and adjust as needed. Just before serving, pour the vinaigrette over the frisee and herbs and toss well to combine.

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To serve, place 1 to 2 short ribs on each plate (depending on the size), along with a few spoonfuls of the braising liquid. Heap some frisee salad alongside the meat. This dish is made complete with a pile of mashed potatoes or creamy polenta for soaking up the juices. If preparing two-day short ribs is more than enough work by itself, simply tear off a few hunks of crusty bread for each guest. This recipe serves 4.

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Filed under Meat, Salad

For the Thanksgiving hangover

I’m not even going to try to tackle a Thanksgiving recipe in today’s post. I know I’m far too late anyway. What I can offer are some ideas that will hopefully give you a little burst of inspiration as you prep for the big day. Any of these ideas could be adapted to any entertaining you have planned for the coming weeks–seeing how we’re neck deep in the season now.

Here are three decidedly brown appetizers I made for Thanksgiving last year that were popular with my salt-loving family. Or there are great ideas for party food from Lottie + Doof. I’d also recommend starting things off with a little spiced apple cider, courtesy of A Beautiful Mess.

For the turkey: if you’re into brining, Food & Wine does a wonderful herb roasted turkey. I also was pleasantly surprised to find this foolproof turkey roasting technique from who else but Trisha Yearwood.

As for easy side dishes, my cheddar fresno biscuits would nicely complement turkey with cornbread dressing. Or if you’re looking for something lighter, my raw shaved brussels sprouts slaw is a fresh take on a wintry vegetable (and super easy). Punch it up with some candied pecans and bacon bits. Or, try one or two sides from Martha Stewart. She is the queen of entertaining, after all. If you need cranberry sauce, you could be like my family and just coax it out of the Ocean Spray cranberry jelly can. Or, if you’re feeling industrious, Smitten Kitchen did much of the work for us, with three lovely cranberry dishes that would brighten any Thanksgiving table.

For dessert, I found this absolutely decadent spiced pumpkin cheesecake with caramel bourbon sauce. I also think something light like this simple lemon granita from Pinch My Salt would be lovely with a few lavender shortbread cookies for a lighter end to the day of overindulgence.

Now all that’s left to give you is a detox salad worthy of the day after. This salad combines lots of textures, which keeps things interesting so you forget that it’s so healthy. I also like that it contains feta and pistachios, because even though it’s supposed to be a detox salad, there’s no point to eating salad as a meal unless there’s something substantial in there like nuts or cheese. Add a thick slice of country bread or whole wheat toast and you’ve got a lovely lunch to counter all that Thanksgiving gluttony.

A very green salad
adapted from 101 Cookbooks

    1 small head broccoli
    Salt, as needed
    4 cups baby romaine
    1/2 avocado
    1/3 cup salted roasted pistachios
    3-4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

Tarragon balsamic dressing

    1/2 shallot, minced
    2 tablespoons chopped tarragon
    1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
    1-2 tablespoons good balsamic vinegar
    1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
    Salt and pepper, to taste

Prep the salad:
Trim the bottom of the broccoli, and cut the stem and florets into small bite-size pieces. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice cubes and cold water.

Heat a medium pot of salted water to boiling, and add the broccoli. Boil for 1 minute, then immediately plunge the cooked broccoli into the ice water bath. Remove after about 1 minute, and set on paper towels to drain.

Slice the lettuce into ribbons. Scoop out the avocado half and cut it into 1/2-inch dice. Roughly chop the pistachios. Add the drained broccoli, lettuce, avocado, pistachios and feta to a large bowl.

Make the dressing:
In a small bowl, combine the shallot, tarragon, Dijon and balsamic. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking constantly, until blended. Season with salt and pepper and taste. Adjust the seasoning as needed.

Assemble:
Pour the dressing over the ingredients, and toss gently with a large spoon so you don’t break up the avocado. Serve immediately. Serves 2.

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Filed under Salad, Vegetarian

Inspiration in the raw

Lately I’ve been in a bit of a rut, for lack of a better word. I think last week’s gloomy rain that yanked most of the leaves off the trees was partly to blame, combined with a general feeling of stagnation as a writer and cook. No matter how rationally I argue against it, every once in awhile little kernels of self-doubt lodge themselves in my head and make me feel like quitting–or at the very least, ordering takeout for the next several days.

So what does this have to do with brussels sprout slaw? Well, sometimes inspiration comes in very simple guises–like leaving brussels sprouts raw and shaving them thin for a little salad bound with mayo and lots of lemon. This simple dish is a slightly unexpected use for these cabbagey little orbs, which I most often roast or toss in warm butter glaze. It was just what the doctor ordered and enough to spark that little twinge of excitement that comes with creating something new.

This slaw is at its tastiest when made with the first teeny brussels sprouts of the season. If you have the big, mature sprouts, just pull off some of the outer leaves and trim the root end.

Lemony brussels sprout slaw

    1 pound brussels sprouts
    Zest and juice of 1 lemon
    1/2 cup mayonnaise
    Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
    1 shallot, thinly sliced

Method: Wash and trim the edges of the brussels sprouts. Slice very thin.

In a large bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, zest, mayo, salt and pepper. Add the brussels sprouts and shallots and toss well to combine. You can serve this immediately or let it chill in the refrigerator for a few hours before serving. Serves 4 as a side dish.

Note: This would make a nice, lighter alternative to braised or roasted vegetables for your Thanksgiving table. Add some candied pecans or crisp bacon pieces to punch it up for a fancy meal.

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Filed under Salad, Side Dishes, Vegetarian