Category Archives: Baked items

Serious Biscuits (and my fear of buttermilk)

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Ever since I got my hands on the Dahlia Bakery Cookbook, I have been wanting to make these biscuits. The only problem is, I have a slight aversion to purchasing buttermilk because I am never resourceful/ambitious/Southern enough to use the whole container. I always have one, very specific recipe in mind when I buy it. I don’t know where little culinary hang-ups like this come from, but they usually result in questionably old buttermilk going down the drain.

Anyway, back to the cookbook and the biscuits. The book offers an enticing sampling of the beautiful, big products coming out of the Seattle bakery that could fit in your pocket. Many of them I would truthfully fly to Seattle to buy at the bakery rather than attempt at home (read: the English muffins–well done, Lottie + Doof). But I generally find biscuit recipes to be irresistible, particularly when they involve butter applied in two forms.

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What I loved most about this recipe was that co-author Shelley Lance bothers to tell you things like why you should cut them into squares rather than circles (no scraps to reroll), and that the biscuits would make great vehicles for a delectable range of sandwiches, like sausage and egg or salmon with herb cream cheese. This allows your mind to wander through the possibilities beyond just stuffing your face with a few biscuits as you’re pulling them out of the oven. There’s a good chance I’ll just shovel in most of this batch plain (or with a smear of strawberry jam), but I like to hope I have a little more self-control than that.

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Serious Biscuits
from the Dahlia Bakery Cookbook, makes 20 2 1/2-inch biscuits

    1 pound 14 ounces (5 1/2 cups) AP flour, plus a bit more for dusting
    2 tablespoons baking powder
    2 teaspoons baking soda
    2 tablespoons kosher salt
    12 ounces (3 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch dice (keep in fridge until ready to use)
    24 ounces (3 cups) cold buttermilk
    2-3 tablespoons melted unsalted butter, for brushing

Method: Preheat the oven to 475F.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt until combined. Add the chilled butter cubes to the bowl, and with your fingers or a pastry cutter, cut the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture starts to resemble wet sand and the butter chunks are the size of peas.

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Pour in the cold buttermilk and mix with a rubber spatula until everything is just combined. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, and knead four or five times until the dough has a smooth surface area on top. Don’t overmix. Shape the dough into a rough rectangle shape, then pat it out to about 3/4-inch thickness. Use a knife or metal bench scraper to cut the rectangle into 2 1/2-inch squares. Note: Lightly dust the knife with flour to prevent sticking. You should end up with about 20 biscuits.

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Place the biscuits about an inch apart on baking sheets, and brush the tops with the melted butter. Bake the biscuits for 14 to 16 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the biscuits are golden brown on top. Remove them from the oven and cool on wire racks for a few minutes before serving.

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Filed under Baked items, Kitchen basics

One bright tart

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The weather in Chicago has been unforgivably bad in March and April. Last week, it rained every day and barely crawled out of the 40s. Then on Sunday the sun came out and the temperature reached almost 70. Everybody in the city was outside. So what did I do that day? I made this tart. (Yes, I also took a long walk with the Mister and the Peanut. But I really wanted to make this tart.)
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As with any baked thing that contains a liquidy filling set with just a couple of eggs, I fretted. I must have peeked at it every 30 seconds or so after minute 25 in the oven. I may have even cracked the oven door once or twice to prod at the middle to see if it was still jiggly. The tart took longer in my oven than the recipe called for, just over 30 minutes instead of 25. But the end product was a gorgeous blend of crisp, crumbly pate brisee tart shell; spongy, not-too-sweet ricotta filling; and crunchy, toasted almond topping.

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I added “lemon” to the recipe title (originally called ricotta and honey tart), since it feels a bit like an injustice to the lemons not to do so. The zest of four whole lemons goes into this recipe, divided equally between the crust and filling. It perfumes the tart with citrus-scented essential oils, giving it a wonderfully bright, springy flavor that’s not at all sour, since the juice is left out.

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Ricotta, lemon and honey tart
from Chow.com
Crust

    8 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 stick), melted
    1/4 cup granulated sugar
    1 tablespoon loosely packed, finely grated lemon zest (from about 2 lemons)
    1/4 teaspoon fine salt
    1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

Filling

    1 pound ricotta cheese, drained overnight (Place the ricotta in a fine mesh strainer over a bowl. Cover it with plastic wrap and weigh it down with a heavy object.)
    2 large eggs
    1/2 cup clover honey
    1 tablespoon loosely packed, finely grated lemon zest (from about 2 lemons)
    1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
    1/2 cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted

Prepare the tart shell:
Preheat the oven to 350F, and arrange a rack in the middle. Place the melted butter, sugar, lemon zest, and salt in a large bowl and stir until combined. Add the flour and mix just until a soft dough forms.

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Evenly arrange small pieces of the dough over the bottom of a 9-inch round tart pan with a removable bottom. Using your fingers, press the dough to form an even layer over the bottom and up the sides of the pan, flouring your fingers as needed. Cover the tart shell with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Take out the chilled shell and prick it all over with a fork. Bake it for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown.

Prepare the filling:
Place the drained ricotta, eggs, honey, zest and cinnamon in a food processor fitted with a blade attachment. Blend, stopping and scraping down the sides of the bowl often with a rubber spatula, until the mixture is smooth and combined, about 1 minute.

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Pour the filling into the warm tart shell, smoothing the top if needed, and evenly sprinkle the almonds over top.

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Bake until the center of the tart is just set, about 30 minutes. Cool the tart completely on a wire rack before slicing.

Makes 8 to 12 slices, depending on how large you like ‘em. This tart is superb with a cup of coffee, but my mother-in-law thinks it also would be delicious with a glass of chilled moscato. Can’t say I disagree with that idea.

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Filed under Dessert, Baked items

White Irish soda bread

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I know I’m a little late for St. Patrick’s Day with this recipe, but this bread is something you should make year-round. It’s not your typical overly sweet, white Irish soda bread that requires gobs of butter to be palatable. It’s a dense bread that gets a slight tang and roundness from a heavy dose of buttermilk. It bakes at a fairly high temp, which gives it a thick, dark, craggy crust. Of course, it would be almost sacrilegious to have soda bread without at least a little Kerrygold Irish butter (a smear of jam is great too, if you like).

I got this recipe from the owners of the Milestone House Bed & Breakfast in Dingle, Ireland. When I taste it, I am briefly transported back to Michael and Barbara’s warm dining room in their lovely yellow house on a blustery hill overlooking Dingle Town.

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Dingle has that quintessential Ireland look to it. Rolling green hills; rocky, frothy beaches; inviting, quirky little pubs that double as cobbler shops or hardware stores during the day. It feels like time moves slower there, and people enjoy every day. I’m not sure when I’ll go back, but in the meantime, I’ll settle for a few big slices of Milestone soda bread with extra butter.

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Milestone white Irish soda bread

    1 pound unbleached white (AP) flour
    1 level teaspoon salt
    1 level teaspoon baking soda
    14 fluid ounces buttermilk

Method: Preheat the oven to 475F.

Sift the dry ingredients together in a large bowl. Make a well in the center, and pour in all the buttermilk.

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Using a strong fork, stir in the mixture from the center out, lifting the fork to introduce air to the mixture.

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When the dough comes together enough to handle it, turn it out onto a floured surface. Bring it together, handling it as little as possible. Cut a deep cross on the loaf and use the fork or your hands to “fluff” it up a bit.

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Bake for about 45 minutes, until dark brown on the outside and baked all the way through. It should sound hollow when you tap the underside.

Allow the bread to cool on a wire rack or upside down on the counter.

As Michael and Barbara like to say, “These breads take practice! And they never look the same twice!”

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Filed under Baked items, Travel

Lovely day for a Guinness (cupcake)

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I want to hate cupcakes, really I do. But they’re so cute and easy to eat. When I got married, we served cupcakes instead of a tiered cake because they were handheld, tasty and much less formal, though my editor will never let me live it down. “How could you possibly be an editor at a baking magazine and not have a cake at your wedding?! Shame on you,” she says.

Whenever I ask professional bakers for their opinions on cupcakes, their response is almost always the same (unless they own a cupcake-only shop). They would rather spend their time making a product that can’t be easily replicated at home by the consumer, which is why they are loath to sell cupcakes. Fair enough. But most if not all of those bakers have also admitted that not only have they added a line of cupcakes to their menu, but that they always sell like crazy. So there. The product we all love to hate and hate to love has finally made it onto my blog.

But I digress. Onto the Guinness cupcakes.

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What I love about these cupcakes is that the slight bitterness of the stout counters the rich sweetness in the cake and adds complexity (and all I have to do is pour some in with a little melted butter). And seeing how we’re a month away from St. Patrick’s Day and all…

This recipe came from my British friends over at BakingMad.com. This site has tons of baked product recipes (everything from Valentine’s Day recipes to pancake ideas) and video primers on practically everything to do with baking. While all their recipes use the metric system, they have a simple conversion tool built into the site. (I hear that we’ll be transitioning to an all-metric system stateside anyway.)

What I also love about their recipes is the language is just slightly more luxurious than our standard recipe style. Sometimes we add vanilla essence instead of vanilla extract. Batter is poured into paper cases, not liners. And we cool the cupcakes on wires, not racks. Nothing like injecting a little richness into the dry world of recipe writing.

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Guinness cupcakes
adapted from BakingMad

Cupcakes

    8 ounces Guinness (sip the rest while you bake)
    8 3/4 ounces unsalted butter, softened
    14 ounces granulated sugar
    1 1/2 ounces unsweetened cocoa powder
    2 large eggs
    1 teaspoon vanilla extract
    5 ounces buttermilk
    9 ounces AP flour
    2 teaspoons baking soda
    1/2 teaspoon baking powder
    1/8 teaspoon salt

Icing

    1 3/4 ounces butter
    10 1/2 ounces confectioners’ sugar
    4 1/3 ounces cream cheese (full fat)

For the cupcakes:
Preheat the oven to 340F (depending on your oven, you might want to bump this up to 350F), and line a cupcake tin with 12 paper liners.

Pour the Guinness into a large saucepan and add the butter. Heat gently over medium low and stir until the butter has melted. Remove from the heat and add the cocoa powder and sugar, stirring until well mixed.

In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, vanilla extract and buttermilk then add this to the mixture in the saucepan.

Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a large bowl. Slowly add the contents of the saucepan to the dry ingredients and mix by hand or with a hand mixer until the ingredients are all well combined.

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Fill each cupcake liner about 2/3 of the way. Bake the cupcakes for 25 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Leave the cakes on a cooling wire to cool completely.

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For the icing:
Mix together the butter and confectioners’ sugar until there are no lumps, then add the cream cheese and mix until light and fluffy.

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Spoon the icing onto the cupcakes and smooth over using the back of a spoon to create a frothy, Guinness-like topping.

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Filed under Baked items, Dessert

Cinnamon-scented Christmas

Decorating

Sean took this photo while I was decorating the tree last weekend. “I’m having trouble getting the camera to focus,” he said. But then when I saw it later I liked that it was blurry. It turned the photo into a representation of what is a very familiar annual scene for many of us and also one of my favorite days of the year.

Sean and I always decorate the tree while listening to the same two Christmas albums over and over (we should probably consider buying one or two more). Then, after a hard-earned dinner, we settle deep into the couch to watch “Home Alone.” I have been known to fall asleep two-thirds of the way in and then exclaim, “This movie is so short!” when I wake up 10 minutes before it’s over. But I still love this tradition.

Hungarian coffee cake

Because the holidays for me are so inextricably linked to food, this coffee cake is one of several family-inspired recipes I will force upon you this season, though I can’t claim ownership over it. It belongs to my mother-in-law Betsy, who passed away three years ago from ovarian cancer. Christmas was her favorite holiday, which means it’s also the time of year when I think of her most often.

She would spend the weeks leading up to Christmas baking a dizzying array of cookies, pushing a few tins on us each time we’d come over (along with a lovely, strange assortment of ornaments). Then on Christmas Day, she would have freshly baked Hungarian coffee cake waiting for us when we came to open our gifts.

A young Betsy and her recipe box

A young Betsy and her recipe box

Like Betsy, this coffee cake is sweet, spicy and just a little decadent. While it’s baking, your house fills with the warming aroma of cinnamon and sweet bread. It is the ideal companion for a cup of coffee, though Betsy always preferred tea. Whatever you drink with it, the best part about this coffee cake is pulling apart the little cinnamon-, sugar- and nut-coated balls of cake until your fingers, face, plate and coffee mug are all coated in sticky sugar.

The recipe below is my adaptation of Betsy’s–pulled from various baking websites. I scoured her recipe boxes but couldn’t seem to find the original version. But with practice I hope to make it a bit more like hers each time.

Hungarian coffee cake

Hungarian Coffee cake
adapted from Betsy Hennessy’s recipe box
Dough

    1 cup sour cream
    1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
    1/2 cup sugar
    1 teaspoon salt
    3 tablespoons active dry yeast
    3 eggs
    4 1/2 cups AP flour

Topping

    1 cup chopped walnuts
    1 cup sugar
    1 heaping teaspoon cinnamon
    1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted

For the dough: Combine the sour cream, butter, sugar, salt and yeast. Stir until the yeast dissolves.

Add the eggs and flour. Turn dough out on floured board and knead until smooth for about 10 to 15 minutes. Or knead in a stand mixer with the bread hook attachment for 10 minutes on medium high.

Dough in greased bowl

Place the dough in a greased bowl. Cover it with plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm place until it has doubled in bulk, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Punch the dough down to degas. Turn it over and let it rise again, covered, for 45 minutes. Meanwhile, mix the walnuts, sugar and cinnamon together and dump onto a large plate.

Dough balls

Assembly and baking: After the second rise, shape the into 1/2-ounce balls. Dip each ball in melted butter and roll in the sugar, walnut and cinnamon mixture. Place the balls in layers in a 10-inch greased tube pan. Sprinkle any of the remaining sugar-nut mixture and melted butter over the top layer of balls.

Just before baking

Cover the pan with waxed or parchment paper and let the dough rise for another 45 minutes. Bake the coffeecake for 40 to 50 minutes at 375°F or until golden brown.

Fresh out of the oven
Remove the cake from the oven, and run a spatula around the sides before inverting the coffeecake onto a plate (do this right away). Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Filed under Baked items, Breakfast/Brunch

A galette and a small realization

When looking through my photos last weekend, I noticed a kind of embarrassing little pattern. Dog, dog, food, dog, Sean + dog, food, food, dog, friends, dog, family, dog, food, food, dog. Apparently, the most worthwhile updates of the past few months of my life involved what I ate and how many different napping positions Penny got in.

In my defense, food and dogs are often the most photogenic parts of life–the former because it almost always sits still for me, and the latter because I’m a sucker for animals.

Now on to the galette, otherwise known as a free-form tart. It took me all afternoon to make this autumnal savory tart, but I didn’t care because it was all I planned to do that day. Plus, Sean was out of town and he doesn’t like squash.

I took about a hundred pictures of the galette when it came out of the oven. On the sheet pan, on the cutting board, on the table out on the deck, on the dining room table inside. Penny trailed after me the whole time, gazing up at me blankly. “Why are you carrying that food everywhere just to look at it through that little machine? I will eat it for you.”

Because it’s pretty, Pen. And I already took a bunch of pictures of you napping this afternoon.

Butternut squash and caramelized onion galette
adapted from Smitten Kitchen

For the pastry:

    1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
    1/4 teaspoon salt
    1 stick unsalted butter, cold, cut into pieces
    1/4 cup sour cream
    2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
    1/4 cup ice water

Method: To make the pastry, combine the flour and salt in a bowl or food processor. Cut the butter in with a pastry blender or pulse in the processor until the mixture resembles coarse meal.

In a small bowl, whisk together the sour cream, lemon juice and water and add it to the butter and flour mixture. Using your fingertips or the food processor, mix in the liquid just until large lumps form. Pour the lumpy dough onto the counter and push it together into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

For the filling:

    1 small butternut squash (about one pound)
    2 tablespoons olive oil
    Salt
    1 tablespoon butter
    1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced in half moons
    Sugar
    1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
    1 cup cheddar cheese, grated or cut into small bits
    1 teaspoon rubbed sage
    1 tablespoon chopped chives

Method: Preheat oven to 375F. Peel the squash, then halve it and scoop out the seeds. Cut the squash into a 1/2-inch dice. Toss pieces with olive oil and a sprinkling of salt and roast on foil-lined sheet for 30 minutes or until pieces are tender. Set aside to cool slightly.

While the squash is roasting, caramelize the onions. In a heavy skillet, melt the butter over medium heat and add the onions along with a pinch of salt and sugar. Turn the heat down to medium low and cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until they’re soft and light golden brown, about 30 minutes. Add a few teaspoons of water every 8 to 10 minutes throughout the cooking process to prevent the onions from browning too quickly. Stir in the cayenne when the onions are done.

Raise the oven temperature to 400F. Mix the squash, caramelized onions, cheese and herbs together in a bowl.

Assembly and baking:
On a floured surface, roll out the dough to about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer to an ungreased baking sheet, and spoon the squash, onion, cheese and herb mixture over the dough, leaving about a 1 1/2-inch border around the edges. Fold the edges over the filling, pleating the edge to make it fit. The center will be open.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Remove from the oven, and let sit for at least 10 minutes before slicing.

The galette is delicious hot or at room temperature. I served it with a mixed green salad dressed with grainy Dijon, mayo, shallot, lemon and lots of black pepper. It was a heavenly dinner for one.

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Filed under Baked items, Vegetarian